Hawai’i

Paradise with volcanoes and biting fish.

I’ve only been to Hawai’i twice: once to Kaua’i and once to the Big Island so I can’t speak to the wide range of standard vacation possibilities. But each time I was struck by the abiding integration with the land, ocean and the spirits that still live just under the modern surfaces.

The hiking in Kaua’i was challenging through the rain and fog to the point where the clay trails became as slippery as sheets of warm ice. Scooting along on our butts to get down the steep hills won us a few disapproving stares in the parking lot.

It is the most rural of the islands with wonderful markets and the jungle views that leave you definitely expecting velociraptors. Pro tip: when you hike to the Hanakapi’ai beach on the NaPali coast where they say you will die if you swim there, 15 bodies have never been found and there are notches taken out of the wooden sign per foolish tourist, well, you can decide for yourself can’t you?

The island of Hawai’i is also called The Big Island to slow down the confusion with the term for the entire island chain. If you are staying in Kona, go for the Kona beer and tour the brewery. Our favorite was a seasonal passion fruit brew only available on the island — and if you hate beer with fruit, don’t worry, they would have to tell you there was fruit in the mix for you to know what that unique taste actually was. And find a small local place for laulau like Da Poke Shack — highly recommended by our friends who love Kona. We will not discuss pizza — although grilled spam is kind of awesome despite the critical judgement of Monty and the Pythons.

I needed a prescription snorkel mask and was able to rent all the gear we needed at Snorkel Bobs — it’s a local chain. There are many places for easy snorkeling, but I was surprised that the parrot fish will actually attack you if you are swimming near a coral reef and they don’t particularly like the cut of your jib. It was a bit of a surprise for city slickers like us and our fancy aquariums in Monterey and Boston. Just don’t wear sunscreen that damages the ocean and don’t touch the coral! Hey, maybe the fish are on to something…

My favorite place in Kona for photos was the Paleaku Gardens Peace Sanctuary with uniques displays of orchids and the devotional elements of the world’s religions. That and the incredible views overlooking Kealakekua Bay are worth an hour or two on a cloudy day.