Sonoma
Less well known than Napa with some hidden gems.
I love driving up to Sonoma and the rest of wine country a few times a year for tastings and a chance to drop the top on the convertible without freezing in the SF summer. You can literally drive out of the 55˚F gloom of the City to sunny 90˚F sunshine and return to have drinks by the fire.
And after “crush” when the seasonal harvest is over (September - October), Sonoma becomes a quiet, rural paradise, perfect for longer stays in an AirBnB or historic inn. And you will probably find cheaper rates in the late fall although it will be cooler and a bit more rain — better for hiking and photographs! You will probably encounter fewer “bridezillas” who roll in at 10 AM from the limo with their drunk crew. Many wineries have a policy of not serving the overserved, but they show up anyway.
We are always looking for the hidden gems of the lesser known and family run wineries (in many cases they are in the smaller towns like Glen Ellen or Geyserville). The more famous ones are easy to find by the trail of marketing that leads you to their door — and they are still wonderful — just expect to have fancier buildings, bigger crowds and higher prices. And don’t be surprised to get pressure to join their wine club. Every. Time. I finally broke down and joined the Pedroncelli club because the wines were solid and an excellent value. Hey, I am not a wine expert, but trust me— inspired food pairings with a particular wine can make it taste like twice the price. While in Wine Country plan to eat at least one extravagant meal in Healdsburg and be sure to have a chat with the sommelier about pairing with each main course.
I would highly recommend that you not drive the rural roads of wine country after more than a couple tastings. I always split a tasting with my wife, but my limit is 3 per day if I’m driving home (maybe 4 with a long lunch in between). Best to park the car for the day and use the on demand SUV shuttle services that are great for small groups. Or borrow some bikes from your host and pedal (carefully!) between tastings. If you are really appreciative of the wines in the tasting, you may be surprised with an extra taste from the bottle below the counter saved for people with excellent taste like yourself!
Have your purchases shipped home — if you are shipping to an overseas destination be aware that there are extra costs and complicated paperwork so just buy one bottle for dinner or back at the hotel and have the rest shipped by the professionals. Expect to pay an extra “corkage” fee when you bring your own wine to a restautrant which is determined through some mystery calculation of how much profit they are not making? I don’t know, but check the menu first because it can be shockingly high.
Wine country has had more than its share of troubles over the last few years with the increasing impact of the fires and climate change. The French are actively looking to replace their traditional grapes in based on the clear evidence of warmer temperatures in Bordeaux. I’m sure the Americans are watching carefully too.
After the affordable housing for the farm workers workers burned, it won’t be rebuilt quickly. Their valuable labor moves on to other regions and the whole culture of Wine Country changes. Power outages become more frequent as the high winds cause power lines to spark fires. These are the risks to visiting during fire season, but also why the quieter time of year can be magic.
Wine Country will adapt. They have to.
