Pacific Coast Highway

Exploring the Left Coast from Portland to San Simeon

The Pacific Coast Highway or the PCH is a narrow ribbon of road that follows the far west coast of the US. In California there are many chances to stop and walk along a quiet hidden beach, perhaps down a slippery path used only by surfers. Or visit a boardwalk with a proper viewing area to watch the sea lions roar. And, if you keep going south from San Francisco, there are beautiful light houses, tunnels, bridges and, eventually, a castle.

The San Simeon, home of newspaper magnate and Citizen Kane impersonator, William Randolph Hearst and his film star wife Marion Davies (who used to hide out at the Willows in Palm Springs — see here.) is Hearst Castle. Pick from a range of tours and, if you are coming for the day, you should take at least one. Around Christmas is a nice time period if you like classic decorations — no blow up Santas here, sorry!

Going north from San Francisco you come to Mt. Tamalpais with views of fog, ocean and hikes through the ferns, redwoods, flowing streams and lots and lots of steps. Keep going a little further along the twisty, cliff hugging road (please find an alternate route for the Winnebago!) and you reach the classic, NorCal Stinson Beach.

Another 40 minutes north brings you to Point Reyes with an impressive lighthouse and, if you stay for another day of hiking, you may be lucky enough to see the herds of Tule Elk up close.

Keep going to Mendocino (or see here) for another day hiking the cliffs and eating well in the historic downtown.

Eventually you run out of California and cross over to Oregon. Welcome to Portland — a funky blend of historic downtown full of neon, interesting restaurants and coffee shops. It has been famously described as where young people go to retire. Bring a raincoat and get out in the weather — there are many beautiful waterfalls and beaches that you will miss if you wait for the sun.

If you go south from SF towards half Moon Bay there are several hidden beaches that are just off a barely marked parking lot. Hiking along the cliffs or along the shore on a weekday you may find other retired old guys like me or some lazy fishermen who should certainly be doing something else. The wind can be relentless so this ain’t no SoCal weather. Dress for it and appreciate the unique nature of this rare part of the world and that it is not, in fact, over 100 degrees Fahrenheit like every place else in the west.

My favorites are Montara State Beach, Cowell Ranch State Park and Mavericks Beach. Look for the beach flowers blooming in the spring, the multitude of rabbits and the soaring hawks looking to dine on them. Fridays the locals seem to sneak out and play hooky from work — get there before 10 AM if you can or the parking lot may be full. And, for goodness sake, do not go swimming and DO NOT turn your back on the Pacific. Just pay attention to the waves and keep in mind a sneaker wave can take you out with a very steady surge that looks just like any other wave — until your legs are swept out from under you and you are pulled into a riptide (swim parallel to the shore if you want to get back to the beach).