Kep is an under appreciated gem. It doesn’t have huge sandy beaches, but the seafood — especially the crab, the nearby pepper plantation that has its own appellation, and a chill island for a massage are all more than memorable. After a long 2 weeks traveling through the Cambodian countryside, Kep was a moment of deep relaxation.

Knai Bang Chatt was one of the best hotels we stayed in on this trip. With the Le Corbusier-style 1960’s architecture (and some tasteful modern additions), the outdoor restaurant and common area on the water playing quiet chill artists like JJos, I wanted to retire right then and there. The chef did an excellent job of crossing the line from French to Cambodian cuisine and back again. And if you venture through a hidden door in the outside wall to the complex you find yourself in an ex-pat paradise — the Sailing Club. Get a drink and watch the sunset from there at least one night.

We almost didn’t take the day trip to Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), but then realized it was someplace special and booked a boat for the day. Massages on the beach and a laid back European vibe (grâce aux Français) almost made up for the dreadful toilets. But don’t travel in SE Asia if you are afraid of a few germs now and then.

Builds character.