Bretagne &
Mont-Saint-Michel
The north coast of France is filled with the ghosts of pirates and saints.
Bretagne (or Brittany in English) has a long history of their own unique culture, different from the rest of France, with classic dishes like savory crêpes. They are called Breton galettes and made with buckwheat flour, egg, ham or sausages. It’s a hearty meal and, with a cold glass of local cider, you can prepare yourself for a lazy afternoon of time tripping.
The cold North Sea has traditionally provided a living through both fishing and harassing the English ships. The Breton pirates would take their booty and escape to fortified cities like Saint-Malo. From the high stone ramparts you could easily see the enemy approach and maybe lob a few cannonballs without fear of reprisals. Perhaps they were an inspiration for the famous French taunting scene in Monty Python and the Holy Grail!
Take a full day and get started early to work your way through the crowds to find le parking and the bus to Mont-Saint-Michel. Or better yet, visit in the off season as we did in late September. The kids are back in school and the French have stayed away from work as much as possible all summer. They are all back to la vie quotidienne (everyday life) until the next long vacation that most Americans can only dream about.
The dark, fluffy clouds and the occasional autumn rain storm only add to the ambience. They bring a special thrill to these NorCal tourists who are starved for a bit of sky drama and free water.
The Benedictine abbey at Mont St. Michel, founded in 966 and dedicated to the Archangel St. Michael, is one of the most important sites of medieval Christian civilization. Protected from vikings by the powerful tides and from tourists with stiletto heels by the clever use of steep cobblestone streets, this pilgrimage was built up between the 11th and 16th centuries. It also served as a fortress for commerce with shops and lodging inside the thick rock walls.
The hike to the top should be savored with frequent stops along the way up and definitely rent the audio tour when you get the chance. Take your time, look for the telling details of centuries of stone work and rework, and stay for a galette. And another cider, bien sûr!
