Chinatown
Oldest, largest and still authentic.
Chinatown is a dense center of Chinese food, art and culture dating back to 1850. It is the oldest in North America and largest outside of Asia. Tourists have been visiting almost since the beginning, but back then it was mostly because of the vice: gambling and prostitution during the wild Barbary Coast days of San Francisco. After 1882, the racist Chinese Exclusion Act was passed stopping the flow of immigrants and keeping families separated. It was not repealed until 1943 after China had become an ally against the Japanese in WWII. There were still Chinese immigration quotas until 1965, making it clear that racial bias has a long history in America.
After race riots in 1877, Tong Gang Wars in the 1880-90s, bubonic plague in 1900, demolished by the earthquake and Great Fire of 1906, Chinatown finally moved to the current location. Keep that struggle in mind as you stroll through the touristy bits and enjoy large platters of delicious food meant just as much for the Chinatown residents as for you! These restaurants are credited with creating an Americanized version of Chinese cuisine including Chop Suey and popularizing Dim Sum. Get the salt and pepper Dungeness crab if it is in season (November thru June) — expensive and worth it. My favorite is the R & G Lounge and here are over 900 Yelp reviews just for the crab!
During my last visit we were approached by a “guide” who was actually a Chinese Christian evangelical and lived in one of the many Single Room Occupancy hotels in the neighborhood. He was also a retired teacher (and merciless with the quizzes!) , seemed safe enough and gave us an inside look at some hidden parts of the neighborhood. We’ve had guides all across Asia so not that strange for us, but our visiting relative from Memphis thought it was all very odd. It was a unique experience and we basically paid the guide in Dim Sum and the change left over from a meal in his favorite spot. That was all he would take from us.
There are official Chinatown tours to consider when planning ahead.
Having been to Asia over 20 times, I don’t think Chinatown feels like China. It is its own unique blend of histories, cultures and geared for San Francisco tourism although you may find only the customer facing staff speak English. And, as the Chinese become wealthy, they move away to the outer districts of San Francisco so you are also seeing just the non-gentrified slice of Chinese-American culture.
The San Francisco parade for the Chinese Lunar New Year is an amazing spectacle and one of the few parades illuminated for dusk. The skill and craftsmanship of the dancing lions and dragons must be seen up close. Don’t miss the spectacular 288′ long Golden Dragon (Gum Lung). It takes a team of over 100 men and women from the martial arts group, White Crane, to carry this massive work of art. And be aware of the small matter of 600,000 firecrackers (those evil spirits are not going to chase away themselves!) so leave the nervous dog at home.
I totally lucked out by going to the starting point at Second and Market where you could see a little of the magic being made. You need tickets for the bleachers and you certainly want to get there early for a spot on the street.
Gung Hay Fat Choy!
