For me, downtown SF consists of Market Street, Union Square, and the Ferry Building. As for Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39, maybe this is on your bucket list of SF attractions to see, but I’ve seen enough t-shirt and tourist tat shops for a lifetime. OK - wait - the sea lions are cute, the historical street cars are fun for a short trip, the Embarcadero is a nice flat walk with views of the bay and the amazing sculpture, Cupid’s Span. The Musée de Mécanique, a collection of ancient pinball machines, nightmarish mechanical fortune tellers and an idiosyncratic private collection started in 1933 is on display at Pier 45.
I guess it is just Fisherman’s Wharf that feels like every other tourist spot in America.
The Ferry Building is an interesting mix of little food stalls and restaurants and a landing for the bay ferries (as you would expect!). Try to time your lunch for the Slanted Door, one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the area (get any kind of roll - the spring or the crispy or both!)
Summer Solstice
Transamerica Pyramid was quite controversial when first built.
Muni or BART to get downtown. Leave your car behind and take a cab home if it's late.
One of the many defunct movie palaces.
Rainbow colors in a Grace Cathedral chapel. Recognition of the many lost to AIDS/HIV.
The beautiful ruins of China Beach
Fresh perspective on New Year's Day at China Beach.
OK - one shot of the GG Bridge. That's it.
In a weird juxtaposition, the high end shops on Market Street are right up against the Tenderloin and the dreaded Mid-Market area. Mayor Ed Lee tried to trick the high tech companies into moving in to renovate and gentrify what was one of the most most miserable parts of SF. He only partially succeeded. So the US of A’s shameful handling of the addicted and mentally ill homeless is on display as they spill over into the nicest shopping areas and surround the cable car terminus at Powell and Market. For me, this is the worst part of the City (and let’s not discuss the tent cities in the more industrial areas). Do not wander about the Tenderloin with a guidebook in your hand.
Having said that, the Danish beer hall Mikkeler is fantastic and just far enough into the ‘Loin that you should keep your wits about you. Since this and all the other bars in San Francisco are closed for the moment, I’ll return to add more detail later.
I am not much of a shopper so I can’t comment on the range of high end chain stores in Union Square, but if the malls in your hometown don’t feature these brands then knock yourself out. The flagship Apple store is my favorite, of course! I have been known to go in just to harangue the young’uns trying to sell me upgrades. They haven’t escorted me out - yet.
A gorgeous Ganesha, the Hindu god who is the remover of obstacles at the Asian Art Museum.
As for culture, I am under the distinct impression that Californians consider live theater something you do when you are not successful in the movies. I have been wrong on occasion with great performances from the American Conservatory Theater, the original one person performances at the Marsh, and some of the small, quirky venues hidden throughout the City, but don’t expect the Boston/ New York/ London quality performances. The Berkeley Rep is a notable exception, but it is way far away on the other side of the bay in Berkeley. Stunning acoustics in Davies Hall, home of the SF Symphony and hosting other international acts. Keep your eye on the calendar as you plan your trip.
The downtown museums are another thing altogether. SFMOMA has wonderful photography exhibits, the Contemporary Jewish Museum (or @jewseum) is a modern architectural gem with fine exhibitions of Jewish history and art, but my favorite is the Asian Art Museum. Before any trip to Asia, this is the place to see the history and art of the region you plan to visit. Or just use it as a way to avoid the 20+ hour flight and 14 hour time zone difference!
The Embarcadero is also the jumping off point for Alcatraz which is the best attraction in San Francisco. Make reservations months ahead of your trip, get the audio tour (unbelievably great) and see if you might go on one of the night tours — my last visit was at night in a heavy rainstorm and it was immensely creepy.
A ferry ride around the bay is an adventure. If you have time, stop off at Angel Island for a short hike or bike ride.
Alcatraz is the best tourist attraction in the City. Reserve tickets months ahead tho.
Evening tours of Alcatraz are magical and creepy. Get the recorded audio tour!
Rent a bike to cross the GG Bridge to Sausalito. Take the ferry back.
The view of the bay from Angel Island. Take the ferry and the short hike or bike ride on the island.
Approaching Alcatraz from the water in a heavy fog.